A Wet Wet Outing-I

Monsoon, drizlling lightly or pouring heavily could not dampen the spirits of three

eclectic travelers, the three who were out to have fun, with or without umbrellas!

'Loitering around ' was the plan, drove to Chikkaballapur district , 60 kms away to loiter in and loitered away to our hearts content!!

First Stop- Home of Sri M.Vishweshvariah

Loitered around the home-turned-museum of Sir M.Vishweshvariah in Muddenahalli , discovering that the " Bharath Ratna"award is a surprisingly small medal with a very short , prosaic citation 

The distant hill was calling us and we moved to our next destination


Second Stop- Bhoginandeeshwara Temple

The temple has a triple shrine to Iswara or Siva. Arunachaleswara a child form, Bhoga Nandiswara the youth and Uma Maheswara the divine universal parents. The temple also has shrines dedicated to the respective shaktis. Apita Kuchamba, the mother (Amba) with Unsuckled/undrunk (Apita) breast (Kucha), the Shakti of Arunachaleswara. A mother, ever full with milk (as though unsuckled) for all who seek, providing the milk of grace. 

 Humble offering at the entrance to one of the holiest and the ancient most  temples of Karnataka

The Bhoga Nandiswara temple, the original temple in the complex, identified as one of the oldest temples of Karnataka, dates back to the early 9th century. The earliest inscriptions referring to the construction of the temple for Shiva, according to the Archaeological Survey of India, are from Nolamba dynasty ruler Nolambadiraja and the Rashtrakuta emperor Govinda III dated c.806, and copper plates of the Bana rulers Jayateja and Dattiya of about c.810.

Nandi, Siva himself born from a Yagna, to Sage Shilada with the blessings of Siva after thousand years of Tapas, means Joy or one who brings joy. Born with three eyes, four arms, bearing trident and mace with a body of Vajra, Nandi prayed to Siva and was granted eternal life and was adopted by Parvati as their child....Linga Puranam

Misty rain, like snow upon KailashMisty rain, like snow upon Kailash

The exquiite wall panel at the back of the Uma Maheshwara shrine, connecting the Aunachaleswara and Bhoga Nadiswara shrine 

Kamateshwara...located in the South West Corner, the corner where Ganesha is normally present in a temple 

Goddess Girija

Marriage procession of Sankar and Parvati

Natraja

Water Spout carrying the Abhisheka Tirtha from the Arunachaleswar

Vasantha Mantapa with exquisitely carved Ashta dikpalas

The Pushakarni in perfect symmetry was the source of River Pennar

The stuccoed figures 

 Granite base and brick top Vimana of the Bhoga Nandiswara,Nandi Hills, in the backdrop, cloud shrouded on arainy day and it was time for us to move up ....up to the Nandi Hills

Discovering Poetic space in the ruins of Chikkajhala

While returning from one of our gallivanting trips, more was to come. We saw what looked like a tempting Vimana of an ancient temple. Set in the concrete jungle this structure was destined to catch our eyes.

We braked, parked and immediately rushed out for we were on the Natioanal Highway 7 The temple is located in Chikkajala.  We took the service lane and thus began our tour of a ruin that beckoned ud from the highway.

The place looked pretty old but there was no signboard. There was rubble piled right in front of it. We were not prepared to encounter the sight that greeted us when we mounted down that rubble The whole place took our breath away. 

The complex with its neatly proportioned tank, the temple in the centre, a pillared mandapa kind of structure behind the temple, pillared corridor to left of the temple, all surrounded by the rampart wall of a now demolished circular fort were beyond expectations.

The three of us are suckers for ruins; for it gives unbridled run to our imagination. This  ruined temple ignited our imagination and we were on a  fantasy trip, more so because there was no information about this place!!

The fort enclosing the temple was circular, just the ramparts no bastions and not much of brick masonry to support the walls from inside.

The main temple and the mandapa along with the corridor did not belong to same period, at least that is what we  deduced, after much deliberation.

The temple had beautiful sculptures on the Vimana but the other parts were bare. Surprisingly, we saw a lamp lit in front of the idol of Hanuman!

The pillars of the mandapa and the corridors are laid out in a rather simple manner, the whole area had the look of a place that had perhaps encountered Ghazni's eighteenth invasion! The floors had been dug up, the pillars the ceilings everything has been stripped to its bone or stone? 

The place looked delerict and run down. But then we saw fresh marks in the mandapa behind the temple. Was it still being inhabited and looked after?

Thus we set about exploring the space, finding the poetic space in that ruined structure at Chikkajala. What was the significance of these marks?

What was the architectural style? Was it W. Ganga or Nayakas looking at the stucco figures one conjectured so 

Was it a private property enclosed within a fort perhaps to protect the temple? 

But then what happened? Who were the marauders, who had stripped the place of its beauty and dignity?

The beautifully laid out symmetrical tank must have been full of water once The ladies  of the haweli after dipping in the tank , offering puja to the lord might have rested in the corridors, exchanged chit-chat and then must have gone into carry out their domestic duties. Perhaps  it might have meant have been a resting place, a serai for  travelers built by a local chief ? Or it might have been a popular deva-sthana?

Was it built by one of the officers employed by the king? Who knows what stories the place holds but we sure did make our own stories and loved every second of story telling at the  ruins of Chikkajala.

The Unlikely Gift of an Army Surgeon

The Government Museum of Bangalore is one of the  oldest in the country and the second oldest in South India . The surprising fact is that it was established not by the King of Princely State of Mysore  or by any of the  European Indologists who were over-busy discovering ancient India at that time .

It was an Army Doctor's baby ! 

Edward Balfour , the Medical Officer if the British Army , stationed in Madras Presidency was , in addition to being a surgeon , an Orientalist , Environmentalist , a chronicler  , a polyglot and keen observer of the native society . He established the State Museum and the Zoological gardens in Madras to much acclaim . 

Transferred to the Bangalore Cantonment , he prevailed upon Chief Commissioner Bowring to open a Museum in Bangalore too . The Museum was opened in 1865 in the cantonment's Jail building ! Balfour augmented his own collection of artefacts with those contributed by citizens upon his  request. 

The Front 

In 1876 a new building was commissioned and next year , there arose a majestic  neoclassical red building with grandiose Corinthian coloumns , sloping eaves and high arches in Sydney Road ( now called  Kasturba Road ) It was designed and executed by Richard Sankey , the Chief Engineer of the State . 

The rear

The garden ornament presented by Sankey to the Museum .

The Stare Museum has archeological , geological and  historical artefacts displayed in two floors . From Neolithic Pottery to the earliest Kannada Inscriptions to medieval weapons to classical sculptures to coins  , paintings and musical instruments , the museum has something to interest all visitors . It is a pity  , though , that the exhibits are poorly curated and often without labels . The available labels too give only rudimentary  - and in a few cases ,  wrong - information . 

Umamaheshwara . Pala 

 Kali . Nolamba 

Limestone slab from Sannati - the largest excavated Buddhist site in Karnataka which yielded three Ashokan edicts .

The most recent renovation work has added a Sculpture Garden at the back of the building with an arrangement of stone sculptures across a lush lawn , affording closer inspection of the carvings for those interested . 

Lakshminarayana .Vijayanagar style . 17 th Cent .

Vaishnavi . 13th Cent Nolamba 

Ancestor Stone , Bangalore region 

Hero stone showing an episode of cattle heist and recovery .

Books and brochures published by The Diectorate of Archeology and Museums are on sale within the premises . 

Tickets cost  a ridiculously low Rs.4 and photography is strictly prohibited except in the sculpture garden .  To click any  exhibit inside , special permission  is needed . 

With  one very enterprising friend on board , it was possible to elicit that all important permission and we  indulged  ourselves , clicking the magnificent Nolamba Kali  from all angles . 

Begur - Small is Beautiful

One magical Sunday, I got a chance to visit Panchalingeshwara temple in Begur . The whole trip acquired a different connotation in her presence!

I had always thought that Bangalore did not have any grand temples. Perhaps the most powerful dynasties of South India found no reason to be bangalored in those days!! But how my judgment was to be altered and impression to be corrected, is the story behind this post.

 The moment I spotted the temple, I was stuck by its striking resemblance to the famous Dharamrajaratha at Mahabalipuram. It transpired later  that it was indeed inspired by the Pallavan style of architecture.

                                        

                                          The Twin Vimanas

 This is one of the oldest temples in Bangalore, built in ninth century A.D. An inscription found in the temple mentions “Bengaluru” thus pushing the antiquity of the city back by a couple of hundred years.

 The charm of this temple lies in the simplicity of its design. Visiting the temple one can easily understand the plan of the Dravidian style of Temple architecture: Nandi, mandapa, antarala, mahamandapa, garbha griha topped by a pyramidal shikhara,  culminating in a stupa like finial. The temple is enclosed within 4 walls with a tank or a well, a Dhwaja stambha and the enclosed temple complex is to be entered through a Gopuram.

This temple can be model for text book learning on south Indian temple architecture for school going children!!

Let the Lesson begin:

The Dhwaja Stambha

                                                                           

                                             

                                                       The Vrishabha Stambha 

                                                  The Vrishabha on the stambha     

                     

                    

The Nandi Mantapa with granite pillars 

Surya Narayan Swami blessing a devotee!!

Ashta Dikpala panel on the ceiling of Nageshwara temple

The details of the Vimana atop Sri Nagareshwara Temple

The musical ganas

Sri Chandikeshwara shrine  : do snap your fingers

 Sri Parvati Sametha Nageshwara Swamy Templewith the cardinal features

Bali Peetam and the wooden  Deepastambha 

The present temple was built by Western Gangas. Cholas added to the temple later. This temple has five lingas each worshipped for a particular reason. The Nageshvara temple is the oldest. The remaining four shrines –Nagareshvara, Karneshvara, Choleshvara and Kalikarnateshvara were built later.

When we visited the temple construction work was going on and we earnestly prayed that the antiquity of the place was not glitzified!!

          

                     

                                              The Pensive looking Nandi

This temple is not opulent on scale and in ornamentation, yet its appeal lies in its uncluttered use of space. There is no straining of senses trying to devour every frieze and panel with hungry eyes…. just a relaxed unhurried stroll in the temple precinct as many times as one wants.

In the temple compound are found many Veeragals ( Hero Stones) collected from around the town . Some have a few lines of inscriptions , most are damaged . Nevertheless, the heroes of the bygone era , frozen in stone , continue to inspire awe and admiration . If they could talk , what amazing stories of chivalry and pride they'd  narrate ! 

While trying to understand the carvings on the Vrishabha stambha I heard the aarti bells and rushed in. It was a pradosha day and devotees had already taken their spots in the main mandapa. This is also a functioning temple. I was stuck by their devotion. Here I was visiting the temple with a critical eye and next to me in the queue chanting mantras were Siva bhaktas. I was humbled. What is more important, simple faith or beautiful sculptures? After all what were temples built for?

 Begur temple gently reminds us of this truth - faith and simplicity have enriched human life for centuries. And this made the small temple of Begur very beautiful to me.

Surya , Ganga Style . 

The antiquity of this Ganesha is indicated by the presence of only two arms  and the way his legs are folded . Multi armed representations evolved later .